The Rail Fence Quilt and Its Zigzag Layout

How the block works

The rail fence suits complete beginners and seasoned quilters equally well. Each block is just parallel strips of fabric sewn into a square. Sew three or four strips of the same width together and you have a strip set. Cut that set into squares as wide as the set is tall, and every square is a finished block.

On its own, one block looks like nothing more than a few fence rails. Put several together, turn every other one a quarter turn, and straight lines suddenly become steps and zigzags.

There is very little arithmetic. Every piece is a straight strip cut on the straight grain, so there are no triangles to cut and no bias edges to stretch during piecing. That makes the rail fence forgiving and quick.

Where the zigzag comes from

A rail fence can read as a basketweave or as a zigzag. Which one you get depends on two things together: the order of the values in each block, and how the blocks are turned.

Imagine a three-strip block with one light, one medium and one dark strip. Put two blocks side by side and turn the second a quarter turn. The dark strip of the first block now meets the dark strip of the second at a corner. Repeat that across the row and down the quilt, and the dark strips join into a continuous diagonal staircase, with the light strips forming a parallel line beside it.

The effect depends on keeping the same value order in every block. Shuffle the strips at random and the zigzag melts into a scrappy field of color.

Choosing fabrics

Look at value first and color second. Two, three, four or five strips per block all work, but three gives the clearest zigzag.

Give each fabric a job. A light such as cream or pale gray acts as the highlight. A true medium bridges the gap. A dark such as navy, charcoal or deep red draws the line.

Three shades of one color give a calm ripple across a bed. For more energy, pair a dark print with a bright medium and a crisp white. Rolls of precut 2 1/2-inch strips are a quick start, but check that the roll has real lights and darks; a soft pastel mix will blur the zigzag.

Strip piecing step by step

Cutting

Cut strips across the width of the fabric, selvage to selvage. For a three-strip block, cut 2 1/2-inch strips of light, medium and dark. Each strip finishes at 2 inches once the seams are sewn, so the block finishes at 6 inches square. Close your rotary cutter blade each time you set it down.

Sewing the strip set

Place the light strip on the medium strip, right sides together, and sew the long edge with an accurate 1/4-inch seam. Open it out and add the dark strip to the other side of the medium. Sew the second seam in the opposite direction from the first, which helps keep a long set from curving.

Pressing

Press the strip set before cutting it. Set the seams first by pressing them flat as sewn, then open the set and press the seam allowances toward the dark fabric, so they do not shadow through the light strip. Lift and lower the iron; sliding it can pull a long strip set out of shape.

Cross cutting

Trim one end of the strip set straight, lining up a horizontal line on the ruler with a seam. Check the width of the set. With three 2 1/2-inch strips it should measure 6 1/2 inches from edge to edge. Cut the set into 6 1/2-inch squares. Each square is a block, unfinished, ready to sew.

Laying out the quilt

Clear a table, a bed or a stretch of floor, or use a design wall covered in flannel or batting so the blocks stay where you put them.

Lay out the first row, alternating blocks with vertical strips and blocks with horizontal strips. Then turn individual blocks until the dark strip of each one meets the dark strip of its neighbor at a corner. Lay the second row the same way, starting with the opposite orientation, and adjust until the dark staircase carries on without a break.

Step back and squint, or look at the layout through your phone camera. Squinting blurs the prints and leaves only the values. The dark strips should join into a clear zigzag. If one block breaks the line, turn it a quarter turn or swap it for another.

Joining blocks and rows

Sew the blocks into rows. Because neighboring blocks have seams running at right angles, there are few seams to match within a row. Press each row's seams in one direction, alternating from row to row, so that the block seams nest when the rows are joined. Pin at those points and sew the rows together.

Borders and finishing

A border gives the zigzag somewhere to stop. Without one, the lines simply run off the edge.

Borders

A narrow inner border and a wider outer border work well together. A light outer border makes dark zigzags stand out. Measure the quilt through its center, not along the edges, and cut the border strips to that length. Edges stretch during handling, and borders cut to center measurements keep the quilt square and flat.

Quilting

Straight lines suit the rail fence. Stitching 1/4 inch from each seam outlines the strips without competing with them. Diagonal crosshatching across the whole top softens the blocks and holds the layers firmly.

Binding

Cut 2 1/2-inch binding strips, join them with diagonal seams to spread the bulk, fold in half lengthwise and press. Sew the raw edges to the front of the quilt, turn the folded edge to the back and stitch it down by hand or machine.

Frequently asked questions

How many strips go into a rail fence block?

Three is the most common, though two, four or more all work. Three strips make it easy to set up a light, medium and dark sequence.

Why is my zigzag hard to see?

The fabrics are probably too close in value. The zigzag relies on light and dark contrast, not on color. Squint at the layout or photograph it in black and white to check.

Do I have to cut every block separately?

No. Sew long strips into a strip set first, then cross cut the set into squares. It is much faster than sewing small rectangles one at a time.

How should I quilt a rail fence?

Straight lines suit it well. Stitch in the ditch along the seams or 1/4 inch beside them, or run diagonal lines across the whole top.